September 28, 2010

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  So… on Friday i was talking with Mme F about how i was a bit nervous about the idea of going downtown at night because after dark i hear the traffic up the road from us and it sounds – as my gardener said, “like a rally” – surely because the Route d’Ivato has been repaved (for that visit of the African Union that never happened because it was just then that the country took a serious nose dive) and now there is such a nice smooth road where cars can go as fast as they please with nothing to stop them – no potholes, no police, and no traffic during the night. She said to me not to worry because downtown was safe now that there were no longer demonstrations going on.

  She obviously misunderstood me that day.

  On Monday Mme F. asked me how my weekend had been celebrating my birthday and going downtown with Josh. I told her that i found the downtown so different at night because there weren’t any street vendors, no traffic… and she interrupted “at night?! You went downtown at night?!”  “But i thought you told me that it was safe now”, i reminded her. To which she replied that she had thought we were going downtown for lunch! “At night it is too dangerous”, she said, “that’s why there isnt any traffic or street vendors! There are pistols and sabres at night downtown,” she exclaimed. “Policemen rent out their uniforms and guns to some sort of gang who pull over cars and taxis and rob them!” Egad. And here i was so glad that she had told me that it was safe downtown these days because it alleviated my fears. Truth be told, i’m glad there was the misunderstanding before we went so that we could go oblivious to the dangers. Apparently the gardener shook his head when he heard this all and declared to Mme F, “The risks those Vazaha take!” The thing is, we simply are oblivious to what’s going on in this country for the most part. Surely those of us who are not working directly with the churches and amongst the Malagasy dont hear the news as quickly or as accurately as those who are. We dont read the Malagasy newspapers, although i did see Josh reading a paper at the “Aero Snack” lunch spot where he usually eats. Simply, we are living in somewhat of a cocoon in many respects… and i confess i probably have abetted this condition because i found it too disturbing before to hear of all the dodgy stuff that goes on in this city.

  I just came home this morning from a coffee date with my friend Heather. We dont seem to see each other as often anymore, now that our boys are both in school and things have simply gotten busier… or something. Anyway, so we met at the Savanna Cafe, just up the hill and past the veggie market from our house. As i was walking there at 9am i passed by the turn off to where Heather lives and the Raphia restaurant where we take our Sunday lunches. I saw some people – women – hanging out there at the corner, some of them sitting in what is a guard house for the boom that blocks that road at night. They looked dressed to the nines… and it dawned on me quite suddenly that these must be prostitutes. There were 3 or 4 women there, a baby, and a 10-14 year old girl who was not as spiffily dressed. I walked on, heartsick. Mme F has told me that there are increasingly more prostitutes and young girls ‘working’ this side of town, away from the downtown area. It is undoubtedly because times continue to be rough because of the political situation and the subsequent sanctions and whatnotall. It’s so frustrating. Yesterday at the Beth Moore bible study some of the ladies shared their experiences working in Madagascar and the frustrations they are also feeling because it seems as though the country is moving backwards after a period of growth and development. Argh!

  So, my first comment in this regard is: there’s a reason we never go out after dark. I go now weekly on Monday nights to a bible study group a few minutes away by truck. Last night i stopped en route to fill the truck up since Josh was going to drive the school run the next morning… sitting there at the gas station at 6:45, after dark, seeing all the taxi brusses with their 2 meter high roof rack loads, seeing the kids i usually see begging at the gas station still hanging out there… it was like a different world in many respects. I just dont see it much.

  Secondly, is there something i could/should be doing right now in this place? I feel quite at a loss as to what to do or how to go about finding something to do. I mean, teaching English seems somewhat pithy when i walk by 4 prostitutes and a pre-teen working the ‘hood just up the street from my house at 9am! However, what can i do as a mom, as a non french, non malagasy (fluently) speaking person? as one who is afraid to venture out after dark? as one who doesnt really want to venture out too far into the ‘real’ world of Ivato (never mind downtown Tana!) because i’m afraid of the heart ache it will engender? I sense that God is trying to push me out of my comfort zone, but… ack! Anyway, your prayers are much appreciated in this respect.

  • 6:54 am
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